My motley readers,
So I was writing to a friend who happened to read the blog about the sari encounters I had yesterday, and she told me that she had been reading a lot about cultural appropriation lately, due to the fact that feathered headdresses are being sold by Urban Outfitters and other “hipster” outposts. I was surprised to read about it because usually I’m pretty up on multicultural conflicts like this, but this particular one slipped totally under my radar. So thanks, friend! You know who you are.
Before I begin my cogitating, here is a link that will lead you to other links that explore this and related issues:
http://bonne-vie.net/index.php/2010/about-that-cultural-appropriation-thing/
In a nutshell, this seems to be the question on the table, and this is my question to you folks out there (provided that more of you have joined my single reader): Is it bad, and why or why not, to wear this feathered headdress thing as purchased by some money-making, non-spiritual company?
Here’s a pic that shows what it might look like at a party (how’d you like to be the girl on the right, thinking you’re so cool, but being shot all over the Internet as the ultimate in insensitive cultural appropriators? Sucks to be her.)
This photo is from “My Culture is Not a Trend.” The related post can be found at
http://mycultureisnotatrend.tumblr.com/post/523529245/via-berrysaymaduug-war-bonnet-gone-wrong
(Note: I have not yet read anything from this blog, so I cannot attest to its…well, anything. I’m totally unfamiliar with it. I am just borrowing a couple of pictures from it to illustrate what this issue looks like.)
And this is, according to someone’s comments on the same blog (so I cannot attest to its accuracy) apparently someone named Lucia Holm, a self-portrait taker, done on commission for one of the companies that make such headdresses.
You get the idea.
So, what is cultural appropriation? Everyone might have a different definition, but here’s mine (highly unofficial): “taking, whether stealing or borrowing, aspects of a culture not one’s own.”
And this issue goes back to the familiar conflict that Native Americans and non-Native Americans have been duking it out over for a long time. From Hollywood’s depiction of “Indians” in the corny Westerns of the 1950s to names of sports teams such as the “Braves” and the “Indians,” to naming vehicles (wasn’t there an SUV called the
Navajo?). Now it’s headdresses.
A little background: the kinds of headdresses you see here being sold are knock-offs of a real phenomenon that was specific to a specific region, and they have a specific cultural and spiritual significance.

I think that this one is a little more real.
These headdresses were worn in the Plains regions of the US. (What one might call “the middle.”) These are the Indians that the layperson thinks of when the word “Indian” is brought up because it is the style that has most often been portrayed in the media. (Think Dances with Wolves.) The Sioux, the Kiowa, the Comanche…these are all Plains tribes. Only men could wear them (so I can imagine that, for traditional Native Americans, seeing women flouncing around in these would be doubly blasphemous), and of the men, only warriors could wear them. And chiefs, I think, but there may be some overlap around who could be made a chief; perhaps only warriors could be made chiefs; I don’t know. However, it is true that wearing one was an honor not to be taken lightly. The feathers in them are, to my knowledge, mainly eagle, and these were awarded based on the warrior’s bravery and deeds. The eagle is protected federally now, but I don’t know if some tribes, the ones that have sovereign status, are still able to gather feathers. They may not. Perhaps a knowledgeable reader can let us know that. However, I know that some eagle feathers are still awarded, but they might be heirlooms…gathered in a time before the eagle was an endangered species. Nevertheless, the cultural significance of the eagle feather is still extant.
There are two obvious sides to this question, with an oblique question that sort of comes in at a 45-degree angle. One side is that wearing such a headdress is not insulting; it might even be honoring the culture(s) of origin. After all, imitation is the sincerest form of flattery. Anyway, they don’t wear those headdresses anymore (actually, they do at certain significant events), and all of the genocide and stealing of land and not honoring treaties happened a century ago. This is just fashion; it’s not like anyone is doing that anymore!
The other side: Well, the unfairness in terms of access to resources (ever been to a reservation? Not all of them are dirt-poor, but many are.) still exists. Native Americans are still marginalized and mistreated and dishonored and ignored, if they’re lucky, but outright persecuted if they’re not, even to this very day. They should not have to see their cultural and spiritual representations/icons worn as fashion. (Here’s an interesting, if difficult-to-imagine parallel: most Christians know the history of Christianity and how the earliest Christians were persecuted by the Romans, right? Well, what if the Romans had eventually prevailed and wiped out all but a smattering of Christians? And then strolled around wearing crosses and crucifixes because it “looked cool”?) Are there any devout Christians out there who don’t like to see the Holy Cross sold at Wal-Mart for $1.95 as part of a “gangsta” outfit? (I’ve seen it. It sucks. I’m not even Christian, and I don’t think much of that.)
Now the oblique angle, which I read on that link that I posted above: what if you made your own headdress? Obviously you won’t be catching any eagle feathers, but these hipster ones aren’t eagle feathers, either. What if you did the beadwork or the quillwork and made it represent your own life? What if you added a feather for each brave deed you did? (Please, for my sake, use vegan feathers–imitation ones. Please don’t use real feathers; the birds need them more than you do…but let’s make that another issue. I just don’t want to be propagating the idea that I think it’s OK to steal birds’ feathers for anything.) If you gave the headdress the significance in your life that the traditional Plains headdress had in the lives of the Plains tribes, would that be OK? Keep in mind that you’re still “appropriating” their culture; they didn’t offer this to you. And if you’re a woman–and I think it is women to whom these hipster headdresses are aimed–that is a doubly difficult question because this headdress is not traditionally allowed to be worn by women. Are we right to impose American/European, Age of Reason ideas of feminism on a tradition that is clearly not rooted in it?
I suppose you want my opinion in this Gordian knot of issues. Well, this is it: I don’t completely know. Obviously I would never want to offend ANYONE for cultural insensitivity. So you would not catch me dead in one of those headdresses because, as it says on the blog, if someone wears one, she looks like a douchebag wannabe. Seriously. Not only does she show that she doesn’t know a fat damn about the culture she’s borrowing from, but she also is basically wearing a big sign that says “CULTURALLY INSENSITIVE ASSHAT” on her head.
But I also don’t want to say that it’s illegal or forbidden for her to wear it. I strongly believe that anyone who would wear such a thing is an idiot because of the obviously heated conflict that will arise from it and, at bottom, the hurt feelings that wearing such a thing would engender. Because, to me, that’s what it boils down to: hurt feelings. And I would never do that to a person because of her culture. Ever. When we wear mockeries of other people’s cultures, we say that we don’t care that those items were hugely important to them. Therefore, we don’t respect the traditions that go along with them. For example, I don’t know if this is true of the war headdress, but I know that it is true of the Kiowa sacred image, the Tai-Me: it was carried and set up by one specific person who was trained in the spirituality of the culture, and who was considered ritually pure enough to do so. Not just any Tom, Dick, or Wind-in-his-Hair could carry it around and be in charge of it. I would be willing to bet that the war headdress evoked similar respect. I know that, in the Kiowa tribe, traditionally women weren’t allowed to hold the weapons. Now, if the same is true of the headdress, but women are now wearing it–and so casually–what is that saying to a Kiowa who’s very traditional? “Your culture isn’t important enough for me to respect.” And for me, that’s not OK.
I would hope that it would not be OK for anyone else, but in fact, it is. There are people out there either ignorant or insensitive enough to wear such a thing. But I don’t think that the answer is forbidding them to wear it. That speaks of a kind of oppression that we never need to go back to again, and nobody knows that better than the Native Americans. Instead, I think perhaps the answer might be ridiculing them out of existence. Sort of like the “song mocking” that some indigenous people did as a form of social control. I am not sure what culture did this; I heard about this in an anthropology class over ten years ago, and it might even be more than one, but I thought it was a clever and effective idea. Basically, someone wrongs another, and everyone involved goes through all of the legal proceedings of the group so that it is definitely sure that he is in the wrong; he did commit the crime. But rather than slamming him in jail or chopping off his hands or killing him, thus depriving the group of a worker/able-bodied human, the tribe or group gathers and basically make songs about him and his crime, mocking him until he really feels the sting of it.
That doesn’t sound like much of a punishment, especially depending on how egregious the crime was. But think back to your school days, when you were the one in the center of the ring of your classmates and peers and that girl you thought was so cute, and it was your Superman Underoos that were around your ankles. Think back to the pointing fingers, the laughter…and the fact that you have never told anyone about that incident. Suddenly, public ridicule doesn’t seem that mild.
So, perhaps that is the answer to this conundrum. Rather than forbidding these wannabe hipsters who are just trying so hard to find a way to belong and be unique at the same time from wearing these headdresses, we can just make songs about how lame they look in their desire, conscious or not, to ridicule another’s sacred tradition. If it was not intentional, then one song session should do it. If it was, then maybe a week’s worth of song mockery should help rehabilitate them. It is a better way than out and out getting angry because, when you’re angry, you look like the douche, and nobody wants that.
However, what about the asshats who make these headdresses to be sold? And the idiotic buyer who’d stock these lame-ass hipster stores with ill-gotten regalia, hopefully someone NOT American so that he or she can plead ignorance about the bad blood that has gone on between Native Americans and non-Native Americans since the first tribe was given smallpox-infected blankets? I don’t know about them. Maybe the hands-chopping-off is still an option.